'65 Standard

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Dual Port
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Re: '65 Standard

Post by Dual Port »

The same deal for all of the window ledges, some of these got a little bit of epoxy paste to fill in deep pits and a couple of pinholes. They weren't bad enough to cut the metal out and replace.
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Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
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Dual Port
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Re: '65 Standard

Post by Dual Port »

More paint prep:

Primer, spot filler, sand out, you know the drill. The Beige Gray was spot on for a match, the SWR was a bit light and a bit pink. I'll cover that later. ;) Oddly enough, PPG calls both of these "brown".
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I used TipTools high build primer and my trusty $10 Harbor Freight touchup gun. :lol:
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Last edited by Dual Port on Fri Oct 20, 2017 11:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
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Dual Port
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Re: '65 Standard

Post by Dual Port »

The left side had the original paint worn through to the primer, but the German primer was much darker than my gray primer. I mixed up a batch of gray (white and black mixed) that was darker than regular gray primer so when I sanded through the new red it would have the correct hue. Shoot the red, but two problems- I need to make new paint look like old paint, and it's too light and too pink.

Air file with 280 through the new paint until it shows the gray in places, then spray some red and black rattle can onto a rag soaked with lacquer thinner, and rub it on the surface. Being the paint is "open pored" from sanding, it absorbs this color to darken it to "about" the right hue. :roll:
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Last edited by Dual Port on Fri Oct 20, 2017 1:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bruce Amacker
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Re: '65 Standard

Post by Dual Port »

Here's shots of the finished product, the beige gray was dead on. I used a Scotch Brite pad to dull the finish, removing the gloss to blend it in to the old BG.
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The forward cargo door is the one the popout hinge was replaced on.
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Bruce Amacker
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Re: '65 Standard

Post by Dual Port »

Here's the "finished" product, looking as scabby as can be. I'm sure when I drive it people will ask, "Are you going to paint it?"- I don't know what I'll respond. :roll:
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Here you go Lurch, this is what you'll be dealing with. :D
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I haven't welded in the cargo door bottoms yet, but I will. ;)
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This is after shooting the red but before sanding/color blending.
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Here's a good before and after shot. There's a piece of paper sitting on the roof, but this is early,
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And this is now.
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W5 would be proud. On to assembly!
Last edited by Dual Port on Fri Oct 20, 2017 6:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Bruce Amacker
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Re: '65 Standard

Post by Dual Port »

The decklid was a mess and I have a better one. I wanted to keep the one original to this bus but I didn't want to make a weeklong task of welding metal. It was only rotted in one place- just outboard of the glass area (not under the rubber, oddly enough) on the horizontal surface of the window ledge. Looking at it, I wonder if the Texas sun was reflecting off the glass at the right time of day and baking that particular area. The bottom of the decklid is beautiful, but just outboard of the glass it was severely pinholed. I took the shortcut route- sandblast it really well, epoxy up the pinholes, (Swiss cheese), and prep/paint. It actually came out much better than I anticipated. I tried (unsuccessfully) to remove some of the graffiti. I ended up removing as much OE paint as spray can. :roll:
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Bruce Amacker
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Marla
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Re: '65 Standard

Post by Marla »

Is that a faux patina? Now that's attention to detail. Looks like it was there forever. :)
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ohiowesty
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Re: '65 Standard

Post by ohiowesty »

I have to ask..are you gonna paint it? :)
WideFive
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Re: '65 Standard

Post by WideFive »

Nice werk, kiddo :D
"There is no restoration process that can give a car legitimacy equal to originality."
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Dual Port
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Re: '65 Standard

Post by Dual Port »

On to electrical. First, stick the reconditioned wiper assembly in.
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Then run the harness, I used a home style fish tape that you'd use in a house, feed it through the framerail from the center of the bus to the front, tape the harness to it, and feed the harness through. Easy peazy.
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Feed it through the front access hole to the dash.
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Same thing in the back.
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You know you have it in the correct front-to-rear orientation when the starter leads are in the correct place.
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If you're going to use any sound deadener in the nose, now is the time to do it. Forget it once the harness is in. I had some FatMat stuff left over from Bus 1 so I put scraps in.
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You know from previous wiring jobs I don't like how VW does this.
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It's stupid to have the fat power lead go to the headlight switch, then jumper to the ignition switch, then jumper to the fusebox. As with other cars I split it off- a 10ga to the ig sw, a 12 ga to the HL sw, and a 14 ga to the fusebox. Oddly, the 14 ga fusebox lead will only carry a few amps for the brakelights, horn, and interior lights. Here's the fat solder joint joining the wires together.
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And two layers of heavy shrink tube to protect it.
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Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
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