1960 SO-23 A.K.A. Gunther
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CraigOnTheBoat
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Re: 1960 SO-23 A.K.A. Gunther
Transmission delivered this past weekend.
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It's Marla with an " L"
(My list of assets is just too long...)
(My list of assets is just too long...)
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chuckspence
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Re: 1960 SO-23 A.K.A. Gunther
Ooow...
Re: 1960 SO-23 A.K.A. Gunther
Progress continues slow but sure.
Installed the interior woods panels, fresh air vent flap, the cover and few odds and ends. I Made a new rubber flange for the air vent and re -riveted it back together. It feels like a tights fit so the should help the wind noise. I also added some rubberized stripes to the cover, that should help as well.
We worked on getting the front door wing window seals installed better. The seals continue to be problematic. I bought new seals from a west Coast Metric but they look exactly the same as the WW ones I installed .
I’ll have to get back to those. It will be hard to drive the bus if water just come right in.
Next up is re-installing the transmission and engine. I’ll be looking for volunteers to help.
Installed the interior woods panels, fresh air vent flap, the cover and few odds and ends. I Made a new rubber flange for the air vent and re -riveted it back together. It feels like a tights fit so the should help the wind noise. I also added some rubberized stripes to the cover, that should help as well.
We worked on getting the front door wing window seals installed better. The seals continue to be problematic. I bought new seals from a west Coast Metric but they look exactly the same as the WW ones I installed .
I’ll have to get back to those. It will be hard to drive the bus if water just come right in.
Next up is re-installing the transmission and engine. I’ll be looking for volunteers to help.
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It's Marla with an " L"
(My list of assets is just too long...)
(My list of assets is just too long...)
Re: 1960 SO-23 A.K.A. Gunther
Can't do that on the floor anymore, too F'n old. Maybe if it was on a lift....
I could advise if needed, and I have lots of little parts that you might need.
Chase the spring plate bolt threads in the RGBs, use a longer bolt to start it, don't forget the lock plates, the brake line holders and rubbers go here too. Put the boots on when the axles are installed and level. Install the Bowden as the tranny goes in. Lubing the clutch cross shaft is a good idea, especially the left side. (I actually drill mine for lube) Pre-fill the RGBs with 8oz 90wt IIRC. Put magnetic drain plugs in the RGB drains if you have them. If your camber was off now is the time to correct it and flip over the rubber spring plate bushings. Front mount goes in with the open rubber "up", like a coffee cup, don't invert it. A new front mount and shift coupler isn't a bad idea, test fit them first. Make sure the tranny shifts correctly before installing, both of mine had bad shifter bushings in the nose cone when I got them back from the builders. Commonly the tranny guys don't pay attention to that and the cross shaft bushings when doing a trans. Use 15mm head nuts and flat washers on the front mount center studs instead of the 17mm nuts that are usually there. Now is the time to replace the shifter tube badmitton birdie bushings to prevent shift rod rattle, the tranny has to be out to access them. Center the shift rod in the tube by prying the front mount l/r to prevent rattles. Get the tranny level before tightening the rear mount bolts or it will look stupid and the shifter might work wonky. Make sure the TOB is centered on the input shaft as it goes together. Beat all of the debris and crap out of the lower frame horns before the tranny goes in if you have OCD like me. Cut the outboard heater box lever shaft nubs off to make engine install easier. Don't use the plastic clutch tool, use an input shaft. Lube the gland nut pilot bearing.
Is that enough? I could be a real PITA like Chuck if I advised...
I could advise if needed, and I have lots of little parts that you might need.
Chase the spring plate bolt threads in the RGBs, use a longer bolt to start it, don't forget the lock plates, the brake line holders and rubbers go here too. Put the boots on when the axles are installed and level. Install the Bowden as the tranny goes in. Lubing the clutch cross shaft is a good idea, especially the left side. (I actually drill mine for lube) Pre-fill the RGBs with 8oz 90wt IIRC. Put magnetic drain plugs in the RGB drains if you have them. If your camber was off now is the time to correct it and flip over the rubber spring plate bushings. Front mount goes in with the open rubber "up", like a coffee cup, don't invert it. A new front mount and shift coupler isn't a bad idea, test fit them first. Make sure the tranny shifts correctly before installing, both of mine had bad shifter bushings in the nose cone when I got them back from the builders. Commonly the tranny guys don't pay attention to that and the cross shaft bushings when doing a trans. Use 15mm head nuts and flat washers on the front mount center studs instead of the 17mm nuts that are usually there. Now is the time to replace the shifter tube badmitton birdie bushings to prevent shift rod rattle, the tranny has to be out to access them. Center the shift rod in the tube by prying the front mount l/r to prevent rattles. Get the tranny level before tightening the rear mount bolts or it will look stupid and the shifter might work wonky. Make sure the TOB is centered on the input shaft as it goes together. Beat all of the debris and crap out of the lower frame horns before the tranny goes in if you have OCD like me. Cut the outboard heater box lever shaft nubs off to make engine install easier. Don't use the plastic clutch tool, use an input shaft. Lube the gland nut pilot bearing.
Is that enough? I could be a real PITA like Chuck if I advised...
Last edited by Dual Port on Mon Mar 30, 2026 12:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Re: 1960 SO-23 A.K.A. Gunther
I think it would be great Bruce if you wanted to oversee or supervise the install. I don't mind ethe PITA part if it's done right.
Chuck would be hard to beat though.
Chuck would be hard to beat though.
It's Marla with an " L"
(My list of assets is just too long...)
(My list of assets is just too long...)
Re: 1960 SO-23 A.K.A. Gunther
Did you install new foam on the inside of the vent area? It's what the flap seals against. Also a good time to seam seal the freh air box to body joints.Marla wrote: Sun Mar 29, 2026 5:53 pm Progress continues slow but sure.
I Made a new rubber flange for the air vent and re -riveted it back together. It feels like a tights fit so the should help the wind noise. I also added some rubberized stripes to the cover, that should help as well.
Here is some info... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... p?t=102071
Re: 1960 SO-23 A.K.A. Gunther
Thanks Ted and I can answer Yes to all of the above. I think
I even painted the inside of the air vent area with rust encapsulating paint before sending it out to the paint shop. I also painted the back side of the cover plate and sealed the inside before assembly. I saw that thread on the samba and another one that gave dimensions for the rubber flap. I made my own from some left over EPDM rubberized roofing I had on hand. The foam inside seemed to be in decent shape so I left that alone. I may regret that decision but we will see.
The foam I used to seal the cover plate was a much thinner, self adhering foam that is used for sealing exterior junction boxes. I also had that on hand and thought it would work. it compressed a little bit and filled the gaps. It seems to be a good fit, we will test it out this summer.
Someone made a recommendation for a magnetic cover for the exterior air vents. I found one but they are out of stock. I will keep looking. I think preventing the air and moisture from entering is a good idea.
I even painted the inside of the air vent area with rust encapsulating paint before sending it out to the paint shop. I also painted the back side of the cover plate and sealed the inside before assembly. I saw that thread on the samba and another one that gave dimensions for the rubber flap. I made my own from some left over EPDM rubberized roofing I had on hand. The foam inside seemed to be in decent shape so I left that alone. I may regret that decision but we will see.
The foam I used to seal the cover plate was a much thinner, self adhering foam that is used for sealing exterior junction boxes. I also had that on hand and thought it would work. it compressed a little bit and filled the gaps. It seems to be a good fit, we will test it out this summer.
Someone made a recommendation for a magnetic cover for the exterior air vents. I found one but they are out of stock. I will keep looking. I think preventing the air and moisture from entering is a good idea.
It's Marla with an " L"
(My list of assets is just too long...)
(My list of assets is just too long...)
Re: 1960 SO-23 A.K.A. Gunther
I have some thin magnet strips I put on the inside vents to block air. I cut them from a larger sheet of material we had at work.Marla wrote: Wed Apr 01, 2026 8:25 am
Someone made a recommendation for a magnetic cover for the exterior air vents. I found one but they are out of stock. I will keep looking. I think preventing the air and moisture from entering is a good idea.
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