LEAKOIL Forum

Sweet. Looks good!

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Looks good Mike, what are you using to coat the metal after you remove the surface rust?

Scraping loose rust, then wire wheel, sandpaper, brushes and whatever else it takes to get all the scale off and down to useable metal. Then POR15 top coated with Bed liner. Bed liner is paintable, so I can spray wheel wells when I paint the bus (in 2018).

Did from front wheels back, including engine bay. Used bed liner on rails and out riggers.

Hat channels, I beams, and bottom side of cargo floor got POR15, then top coated with undercoating.

Trailing arms are POR15 then top coated with black rustoleum

I've used POR15, it is great for stopping rust.

Blah blah blah

Love the wooden jig. My tranny was scuzzy as hell, too, and I wirewheeled it which makes it look like chrome. It also wipes out the synchros when you clean it too well, take it from my experience.

Mike Kever Kombi wrote:Blah blah blah

And with 2.5 liters of GL5 (or is that GL4 ) you're home free!

Dual Port wrote:Love the wooden jig. My tranny was scuzzy as hell, too, and I wirewheeled it which makes it look like chrome. It also wipes out the synchros when you clean it too well, take it from my experience.

The wooden jig was born out of necessity a few years ago. It makes pulling the transaxle out by yourself with just a floor jack a breeze.

It's a flat 2x6 with notched 2x4 at each end that "cradle" the axle tube. Side to side balance is perfect, and you just keep a hand on bell housing to keep front to back balance. You can also set it on 4x4s on a furniture dolly to make is easier to move around, or put it up on Jack stands like I did to work on it.

It cleaned up really well. I used as little water as possible.
Only scraped it, then used brass, stainless, and nylon brushes on it with purple power degreaser. Then a quick blast with a garden hose. Gotta love being able to use the hose at the end of December

Six Volt wrote:And with 2.5 liters of GL5 (or is that GL4 ) you're home free!

...and let the debate begin

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