Mike Kever Kombi wrote:Toolbox,
I think I understand what you are saying. The "Y" in the rear crossmember is not used on my standard. It should be capped off at left side inlet. The heater log connect to the left side outlet (coming from engine bay). The right side heat channel (the one I patched) flows through to the cabin outlet at the front of the van. Left is seperate from right, and they never connect (only on sc/dc do they utilize "Y" @ crossmember).
Is my understanding correct?
You are correct except Kombi's and Panels use the Y too, no back heat on those normally.
Thanks for taking the time to reply, I appreciate it. It will bw much easier to install it this way, rather than trying ti figure out some "Y" connection.
I guess it makes sense when you think about it. The transporters would have rear heat as presumably there would be passengersm whereas with the kombi, panel, dc and sc there would just be cargo.
Taking this line of thought one step further, I would assume that campmobiles and westys also had logs. Does anyone know if that is correct?
That definitely helps a ton. Between toolbox's explanation, and your pics I think I have it figured out.
My outlets (coming from engine bay) just move freely, I assume once the floor is welded in, they will stay in place? If so I will need to install engine to make sure they are aligned properly?
That definitely helps a ton. Between toolbox's explanation, and your pics I think I have it figured out.
My outlets (coming from engine bay) just move freely, I assume once the floor is welded in, they will stay in place? If so I will need to install engine to make sure they are aligned properly?
There is a bit of a margin for error. The heat exchanger is hooked to the heater muffler with a flex tube.
Here is a pic of the right side looking rearward
Here is a pic of the left side looking rearward
And yes my tans leaks. The boots started leaking after i had it on the lift with full axle drop.
And the paper hoses have benn on there for 7 years. The early vehicles had a smaller exchanger outlet than the later vehicles, I made the adapters out of exhaust pipe with a hydrulic pipe expander.
Regarding Toolbox's heater tubes- I applaud the creativity to make the pipe adapters because I'm trying to think how I'm going to handle the same thing. My engine has T1 heater boxes on it which (I think?) are different and will need some type of adapter. I think the stock T2 setup probably used an insulated hose between the heater box and the heater muffler. I'm wondering if there is a slight BTU loss with the hose he has vs. a stock insulated hose? These iceboxes need all the heat they can get. I actually flow tested my heater tube going up front to make sure it didn't have any unseen leaks or blockage in it. I will insulate the shit out of it once the bus is done.
Regarding Mike's floor-
Do you have a floor yet? It should have a cutout like this for the heater tubes:
Dual Port wrote:Regarding Toolbox's heater tubes- I applaud the creativity to make the pipe adapters because I'm trying to think how I'm going to handle the same thing.
Heat tubes are available new that have the EARLY (50mm) ends for the body and the LATE (60mm) ends for the heat exchangers. I have a set on the DD Panel. Prt# 113255355C
Dual Port wrote:I think the stock T2 setup probably used an insulated hose between the heater box and the heater muffler.
Dodecahedron steel flex pipe wrapped in the same material as the rest of the heater tube system.
"There is no restoration process that can give a car legitimacy equal to originality."
