'66 Deluxe

[Dual Port]

This happened a few weeks ago but I'm just getting around to posting it. I noticed while driving that my shift knob would move around when I accelerated/decelerated. I knew right away this is a broken trans mount.

Rack it, remove the valance, and remove the left bumper bolts so when the engine shifts back it won't hit the muffler.

Disconnect the shifter and pull the two big bolts from the horseshoe cradle.

Pull most of the RGB bolts out to loosen the powertrain. Disconnect the throttle cable and loosen up the clutch adjustment all of the way to the end.

You must be aware of what you're doing! The entire engine/trans is now loose and not held into the bus. Keep in mind things like weight balance on the lift arms and what is holding up the powertrain.
I used a couple of wooden wedges to bring the powertrain rearward so I had access to the trans mount.

Remove the mount nuts. It's tight in there, tight enough that there's not enough room to get the mount out without removing the studs too. Luckily I had sandblasted and thread chased the stud holes so they came right out for clearance.

Yep, it's broken, a WW mount I put in new 5 years and 11,000 miles ago.

Fortunately I stock these, it happens to be a WW mount but it looks like WW changed their supplier. It no longer has their logo on the side and it's a gray one from Brazil. The Samba gang seems to think the gray ones are better.

This is a PITA job on the lift, I wouldn't even think about doing it on the ground. Maybe if I was younger and more flexible, but that was a long time ago...….

[Dual Port]

Install it with the open side "up" like a coffee cup. Shit won't work right if it's upside down and plenty of guys have done that. The two center nuts have limited clearance, usually they're 17mm hex (10x1.5 thread). Cylinder head nuts are 15mm hex and give you more working room.

My coupler was also a bit tired so I changed that out too.

The coupler didn't look "turned" but evidently it was. I needed to turn my front coupler a few degrees to get the shift pattern in the right place and R working correctly. Don't forget the safety wire.

This is a time where I appreciate all of the time I took to sandblast and paint the bottom of the bus. It's nice to work on a clean undercarriage. Even now, 5-6 years later it still looks pretty good.

[Six Volt]

That is pretty challenging work with the engine and trans still in the vehicle.

Way above my pay grade.

Removing the mount studs would be no easy task in most buses. Add removal of the RBG bolts with the engine still attached to the trans and I'd be in way over my head!

I'm glad we have aftermarket parts to source, but it sure is no fun when they only last 5 years and 11,000 miles. I'd pay 10X what that mount cost for a lifetime (100,000 miles) of service.

Any updates on the intermittent issue in Bus #1?

[Dual Port]

Any updates on the intermittent issue in Bus #1?

Yes.

I had an odd problem on the Detroit trip, the bus would buck really hard intermittently like an ignition problem. It might happen twice in an hour, or it might go 2 hours without it happening. It's tough to diagnose an intermittent problem as most diagnostics will probably prove NPF. As it seemed like ignition I started by replacing the points and condenser which seems to have fixed it. I'll chalk this up as a bad condenser as I now have about 4 hours since replacing the P&C without an issue. I do carry a spare distributor, coil and other parts along with tools to change them on the road.

Condenser failures seem to be a pattern lately, this is the third I've had in the last few years which is more than the previous 4 decades combined, and that includes owning the shop.

[Six Volt]

WW indicates they offer Bosch, but I'm not sure what that really means anymore. For the 40HP, they indicate Bosch or Wegu, but I have no idea what the Wegu brand is.

I'd be curious to see if there's any real difference between the offerings of CIP1 and WW on these components.

WW http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_ ... denser.cfm

CIP1 https://www2.cip1.com/searchresults.asp ... =condensor

[Karl Kombi]

I remember when I used to buy them at Uncle Bill's. Brand name? ????

[toolbox]

WW indicates they offer Bosch, but I'm not sure what that really means anymore. For the 40HP, they indicate Bosch or Wegu, but I have no idea what the Wegu brand is.

I'd be curious to see if there's any real difference between the offerings of CIP1 and WW on these components.

WW http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_ ... denser.cfm

CIP1 https://www2.cip1.com/searchresults.asp ... =condensor

Just go to NAPA and get Echlin parts. Too bad you can't get Standard Blue Streak VW ignition parts anymore.

[Six Volt]

WW indicates they offer Bosch, but I'm not sure what that really means anymore. For the 40HP, they indicate Bosch or Wegu, but I have no idea what the Wegu brand is.

I'd be curious to see if there's any real difference between the offerings of CIP1 and WW on these components.

WW http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_ ... denser.cfm

CIP1 https://www2.cip1.com/searchresults.asp ... =condensor

Just go to NAPA and get Echlin parts. Too bad you can't get Standard Blue Streak VW ignition parts anymore.

Good call!

[SlashKirk]

Yep, it's broken, a WW mount I put in new 5 years and 11,000 miles ago.P7240094a.jpg

P7240094a.jpg (163.48 KiB) Viewed 32257 times

I'm sure you've read about many people pre bolting them together through the rubber to lessen the chance of breaking the nosecone when they give it up.
I have never done it and fully expect to be replacing mine too.

[toolbox]

Yep, it's broken, a WW mount I put in new 5 years and 11,000 miles ago.P7240094a.jpg

P7240094a.jpg

I'm sure you've read about many people pre bolting them together through the rubber to lessen the chance of breaking the nosecone when they give it up.
I have never done it and fully expect to be replacing mine too.

You could also install a Wolfgang mid mount in addition to the stock mounts.

https://www.wolfgangint.com/store/produ ... mid-mount/

mid.jpg (90.28 KiB) Viewed 32245 times