LEAKOIL Forum

heyed67 wrote:Did u reverse the polarity on your machine when u put flux core in it?

This has been set up for flux from the start, but now that you mention it, I remember seeing the polarity for gas, and that's how it's set up.. I'll check it tomorrow!

If you guys own bottles, you can exchange them at airgas. If they are out of hydro, they tack on a little extra for exchange, but cheaper than a hydro test. If you rented the tank initially this should not be an issue as long as you take it back to the original supplier.

If you are interested in a cheap used tank still in hydro to purchase, try this guy, he is on a home brewing forum I am on.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/40-20-c ... dex28.html

40$ for a 20# tank. It seems like a strange way to do business, but as you can see he delivers. Just send him a message and go from there.

heyed67 wrote:I'm a fan of gas shielded mig but I had the same problem with my tank and was forced to use flux core..

I use the GMAW process, but i keep a spool of flux core as a back up. There's been several times when im in the zone on a project and run out of gas at midnight. I just throw the flux in and keep on trucking. Choosing the wire diameter makes a difference too. For body work/sheet steel I use .030 mig with 92/8 gas. Klokkerholm panels i use .023 with really low amperage. Those panels are such junk, but with some effort, they can be made into a decent panel. Good luck with your welding, bro! Make sure that the og steel is super clean. Blast it if you can. Its very difficult to weld fresh steel to surface rusty steel. No matter how good of a welder you are, it will always look like shit. Cut far enough back into clean, paint covered metal for best results.

I have never owned a little mig welder, bought a Millermatic 250 (240/480vac single phase) brand new back in the mid 80's and have never known the crap welding problems of the Lincoln SP's and the like, when I pull the trigger on my welder it welds every time, no sputtering or burnback problems, you can find used 250Amp welders for around $600, and buy multiple gas bottles when $$$ permits so you'll have a spare, keep your 120v mig & flux core wire for road jobs they're still very useful for things like that, but if you want professional welds every time it may be time to upgrade to a bigger welder....

chuckspence wrote:I have never owned a little mig welder, bought a Millermatic 250 (240/480vac single phase) brand new back in the mid 80's and have never known the crap welding problems of the Lincoln SP's and the like, when I pull the trigger on my welder it welds every time, no sputtering or burnback problems, you can find used 250Amp welders for around $600, and buy multiple gas bottles when $$$ permits so you'll have a spare, keep your 120v mig & flux core wire for road jobs they're still very useful for things like that, but if you want professional welds every time it may be time to upgrade to a bigger welder....

The millermatic is the best welder i've ever used imo. The newer digital ones are not as reliable, but still decent. I've been keeping my eyes on some auctions looking for a 6' break and foot shear. I wouldn't mind having a older miller too. I have a miller spectrum plasma 220v thats pushing 18 years old. It recently blew some ic's on the board, but its fixable and was reliable up until that occured.

Floor pans are in, and I put on the new exhaust. The only problem is that the flange is welded on the muffler wrong, so my muffler has to be on upside down. Grr

I put 15 hours into the bus this weekend.





I forgot pictures of the plans welded in :/





The fitment of the klokkerholm dog leg is garbage just like everyone has said. I'll probably end up getting a just kampers or the awesome green one

I could be wrong ( happens often), but I thought splitties and type 3s muffler tip exited left side, and bays exited right. May be different with early bays running collector pipe/muffler though.

Mike Kever Kombi wrote:I could be wrong ( happens often), but I thought splitties and type 3s muffler tip exited left side, and bays exited right. May be different with early bays running collector pipe/muffler though.

Upright Bays used the same muffler and damper as Splits. The tailpipe is different between them.

Jason, once you try to install the apron and bumper I bet that muffler hits. Best to go stock. AutohausAZ had the best price on a european exhaust when I did my muffler this spring and free shipping.

The way this is supposed to be is on the right. It is on upside down because it will not fit any other way at the moment. The muffler is upside down, the thunderbird text is on the bottom now.

Thanks Ted. Sadly I'm stuck with what I have for now. I'm just trying to get this thing on the road, this was cost effective and better than the rotten header that was there. And bumper, what bumper? I still have not found a reasonably priced one.