'66 Deluxe

[Dual Port]

A few years a go I was bored and did a top end on this 1600DP. I did rod bearings, rings, ball honed the jugs, and had the heads done by LA. I didn't have a use for it at the time, I just didn't have anything to do that day. I figured it would get used eventually.

It's been sitting for years corked up and filthy, now I'll switch it over to SP and put it to use.



Rancho called today, they're shipping my tranny.

[WideFive]

...

[Dual Port]

What R&P and gears did you end up getting?

3.88, stock 4th, 12v bell. They phucked around so long that I yelled at them, and they're giving me the freight and a hockey stick free.

[Dual Port]

Time for an update, the single port heads are on, I didn't know that there are two head studs on each side that are longer with a SP, so I had to source 4 new slightly longer studs to make it work. The heads fit nice and I didn't disturb the seal between the jugs and the case while doing them. I also got my missing SP tin and installed it/them. I'm a believer in filter pumps and don't like full flow systems because of the complexity and more chances for leaks. VW built millions of filter pump engines later in life that were never sold in the states. Here I'm using the puller to remove the old pump.

Yes, I know, I should have cleaned the case first.

Make sure you get the right pump, it depends on what cam/gear you're using. Mine is a stock late DP setup with the dished cam gear, I've had good luck with this CB pump, it ain't cheap, about $60.

Remove the old oil pump studs, clean the case flange (yea, and the case too ) with a razor blade, brake clean, and install a couple of guide bolts to make sure it's straight. A bit of spray tack on the gasket, and knock the pump body in with a block of wood and a mallet. The case wasn't clean at this point but the flange was spotless.

More spray tack and the cover goes on. I keep a spare cover gasket on hand because I have several of these pumps on engines.

Torque to 18 ftlb and install a filter with a bypass valve, Napa 1374 fits this application. This is critical! If the filter does not have a bypass, it will crush the filter material on a cold start, starve the engine, and lose a crank. It happened to me years ago and ruined a vacation to the Outer Banks. I sold an engine (w/filter pump) to a buddy who changed the oil the night before we left, the parts store crossed the filter PN to a Fram which did NOT have a bypass. After towing it to Ocracoke, he started it up, the filter crushed, spun a bearing, and ended his fun. We bitched to Fram, who amazingly paid for the engine parts and labor but not the vacation. I still won't use Fram filters to this day, and that happened in 1986.

Flip it over, clean the bottom, install the screen and plate with silicone gaskets.

On to the generator, chuck a small wire brush in a drill, clean the commutator and install new brushes. The brush screw wasn't clean but I did clean the flange under it for a good contact. It's amazing what you see in pics later that you could have done better. No, the hammer marks aren't mine.

Polarize and motor the gen on the bench. This rejuvenates the magnetic field in the armature to make sure it charges, as the magnetism goes away after sitting on the bench for years. It also lets you know that the gen "should" work if it motors.


Pull the flywheel and change the rear seal. Good thing, as it was hard as a rock.


A piece of 3" PVC pipe fits perfect with a HF driver to install the seal.
I didn't shoot the new seal going in, so here's a mockup of what it looks like on a spare case.


The intake I got off a 1300 was a bit taller but not the 1.5" it should have been to replace the height from the governor (that won't be used).

The heat riser tube was clogged, I used a piece of clutch cable in a drill to ream it out. I've had very poor luck doing this in the past, commonly cutting a hole in the heat riser and using a long 1/2" drill bit to clean out the rust, then welding the hole shut. This is the first time I remember it working.

To top it off after reaming, I soaked it overnight in vinegar to loosen what rust the cable didn't get, and then reamed it again. Vinegar is a great rust dissolver.

Mocked it up and everything fit perfect.

The galleys and cooler were bone dry from sitting for years and I didn't want to spin it over that way. I used a hand pump and thin oil to pre-lube it. The pump was assembled dry because I know I would pre-lube it, too, by pumping some oil into the pressure outlet and turning the engine backwards by hand to lube the gears.

I amassed a few SP carbs, the one that looked the best and had the tightest throttle shaft was a Brosol H30/31, so I rebuilt it.

I put a SVDA dist together from spare parts and polished the housing. (no pics)

I put it together, new Hoover bit 'cause I'm running out of used ones, heavy foam tape around the oil cooler (which I flushed and resealed), test fired it Saturday, and it runs great. I ran it 1.5 hours with zero leaks! The stain on the heater boxes was from ballparking the valves, I'll do a final adj now that it's run a while. Oil pressure is great even with the thin 0w-20 that I'm using initially, 45psi when revved and 25 psi at idle (hot). I'll change the oil and filter after a few hours run time to something heavier. I didn't split the case so it has old mains in it, but they must be tight. I did change the rod bearings several years ago (with no run time).


The fence pipe runs to an exhaust fan in the shop so I can keep the big doors closed, crack a small door, stay warm and not die of CO poisoning while it's running.

Cylinder port temps after running an hour were within 10F on each cylinder, and it sounds perfect.

Nothing funner than sitting in a lawn chair and watching a fresh engine run perfect.

Changing the heads and trimming the engine probably took another 30 hours. It's unreal how much time is consumed cleaning, beadblasting, and painting parts. If it weren't for that, this would be about 10 hours.

[toolbox]

Bruce,

Found an interesting radio option.A motorcycle unit, has FM, BT, USB and SD slot. Looks inexpensive enough to test drive one to see how it is.

[Dual Port]

That looks cool and would work, but I'd still prefer something that fits in the dash hole and has less obtrusive wiring.

Thanks!

[Six Volt]

Looks great. Love that oil fiter system. Just wondering, do you have to remove the exhaust/breast plate to change the oil filter? Or is there enough room as is?

[Dual Port]

Plenty of room to access the filter from below. The only caveat is that you need to get a muffler with a right hand pre-heat tube and not a left hand tube. Most are right hand, but some are not, the regular split bus muffler is right hand. I've seen some T1s that were left hand, though.

[wwebner]

Bruce used the correct filter pump from CB. Some others have issues with the back side of the pump housing
hitting the bolts on replacement camshafts with a bolt on gear.

[TRL]

Hey Bruce, I hope your aware that the H30/31 carb has a different vacuum signal and may not advance properly. Otherwise the motor looks great!