LEAKOIL Forum

Do you own the Robert Bentley manual? If not,that's the first thing you need. Excellent section on the FI. You can trouble shoot most of it with a test lite.

toolbox wrote:

Kooper271 wrote:

wwebner wrote:I

Heads: If mine are not repairable, I will probably bite the bullet and buy a new pair from Len Hoffman for ~$1450

Buy the heads from Bill, supposedly the new AMC heads have valves you can use.

Hey, cool beans. Thanks for the heads up!

wwebner wrote:Do you own the Robert Bentley manual? If not,that's the first thing you need. Excellent section on the FI. You can trouble shoot most of it with a test lite.

I have two copies, one for the garage and one for the road. I also have Muir's book and also the "How to Rebuild Your Aircooled Volkswagen Engine" book...

After looking at it some more last night though, I'm worried that it ran lean. All of the vacuum lines are in bad shape.

While this is "OLD SCHOOL", pull your spark plugs. Before the days of A/F ratio metering and O2 sensors, this is how you could determine whether you are running rich or lean. the chart below is old stuff,it does not show "rich" of "lean",but is somewhat useful. Rich will be a blackened plug,un burned fuel ,while a white plug tip will indicate a lean condition (hot). In a very lean condition the plug tip may even be deteriorated. I am planning an article on the AFC fuel injection and how to properly tune it,but it may be a while,I have another thread to finish first
click to enlarge

wwebner wrote:While this is "OLD SCHOOL", pull your spark plugs. Before the days of A/F ratio metering and O2 sensors, this is how you could determine whether you are running rich or lean. the chart below is old stuff,it does not show "rich" of "lean",but is somewhat useful. Rich will be a blackened plug,un burned fuel ,while a white plug tip will indicate a lean condition (hot). In a very lean condition the plug tip may even be deteriorated. I am planning an article on the AFC fuel injection and how to properly tune it,but it may be a while,I have another thread to finish first

Thanks for the great info! I need to get my butt in gear and put some pictures up.

Got my engine out last night, but I managed to bend this bolt...



(Thanks to ratwell for the picture)

It is one of the studs that stay in the engine that your stand/mount can mount to... Runs through the transmission bellhousing.

What is involved in replacing it?

Not uncommon and not a big deal As I recall it is an 80mmx10mm stud. double nut it or use vise grips. as long as the threads in the case are OK,your good to go.

wwebner wrote:Not uncommon and not a big deal As I recall it is an 80mmx10mm stud. double nut it or use vise grips. as long as the threads in the case are OK,your good to go.

So just try to bend it straight again? threads inside the case are good as far as i know.

Also I've added pictures finally to the first and second post.

Sure,just straighten it. BTW,looks pretty solid with minimal rust repair. Now would be a good time to pull the fuel tank and inspect/clean it. Also replace filler hose if needed and especially the vent hoses and the tank fuel lines.Look at the tank outlet and return nipples on the bottom of the tank. 77 they are probably ok. 78 and 79 they packed insulation in this area causing them to rot.
Looks like you will be looking for the corner piece of tin that has been hacked where the AC compressor is.

wwebner wrote:Sure,just straighten it. BTW,looks pretty solid with minimal rust repair. Now would be a good time to pull the fuel tank and inspect/clean it. Also replace filler hose if needed and especially the vent hoses and the tank fuel lines.Look at the tank outlet and return nipples on the bottom of the tank. 77 they are probably ok. 78 and 79 they packed insulation in this area causing them to rot.

Fuel tank is definitely coming out and being cleaned, fuel sender and filler neck are both being replaced. All the vent/vacuum hoses and fuel lines are going to be replaced. The tank outlet and return nipples seemed ok from what I could tell but I will inspect them better when the tank comes out.

Getting that engine out was a pain! So many frozen/rusted bolts. On top of that I had to remove the AC compressor and the trailer hitch. I had to cut out my heater boxes, too.