LEAKOIL Forum

obsoleteman wrote:If it is not just sitting on the surface (and toxic plastic), can it really protect the wood?
Well...Probably...yes... The Minwax will make a deep protective bond. And yes, My grandmother would have used it (but are we old enough to not be embarrassed by that fact ?).

I do not think anyone is embarrassed about waxing their wood, hence the lengthy discussion.

obsoleteman wrote: "Stabilize, protect and preserve"...I think it will be a sound choice(and besides, you will have my Grandmothers approval).

It is very important to use the proper protection on your wood

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wwebner wrote:You might want to look into a product called Waterlox. It is mostly tung oil.
Many years ago when I worked in a restoration shop,I was tasked with refinishing the wood in the older Roll's and Packards. This is what I used. It takes several coats,so it is not quick,24hrs between coats. Lite sanding or 000 steel wool between coats. The first coats penetrate as opposed to "laying on top" of the surface. No need for sealer or finish coats,just one product. Satin or gloss finish
http://www.waterlox.com/products-item/w ... inish.aspx

X2 on the waterlox. I used it to finish my wood floor in my house, good stuff. I was high for weeks! I got it at the hardware store on E71st and Harvard, Rudy's I believe.

Josh Knows; Use Tung Oil...and the job is licked.

Josh wrote:

wwebner wrote:You might want to look into a product called Waterlox. It is mostly tung oil.
Many years ago when I worked in a restoration shop,I was tasked with refinishing the wood in the older Roll's and Packards. This is what I used. It takes several coats,so it is not quick,24hrs between coats. Lite sanding or 000 steel wool between coats. The first coats penetrate as opposed to "laying on top" of the surface. No need for sealer or finish coats,just one product. Satin or gloss finish
http://www.waterlox.com/products-item/w ... inish.aspx

X2 on the waterlox. I used it to finish my wood floor in my house, good stuff. I was high for weeks! I got it at the hardware store on E71st and Harvard, Rudy's I believe.

obsoleteman wrote:Josh Knows; Use Tung Oil...and the job is licked.

Apropos.

Rudy's hardware closed last year so he could go full time selling Rolls Royce parts....

http://www.cleveland.com/cityhall/index ... lavic.html

You can also buy it at the ace hardware on turney rd in Garfield hts

Josh wrote:You can also buy it at the ace hardware on turney rd in Garfield hts

Thanks Bill and Josh, I might check this stuff out for some furniture refinishing I have planned. Looks great, nice floors.

I should be done taking the clear coat off of all of the cabinets this weekend. Aside from some minor touch up in some areas, I only have the wash basin left (I saved the worst for last). I will post pictures after they are completely stripped.

Thank you everyone for such wonderful commentary and advice.

Josh wrote:
I used it to finish my wood floor in my house, good stuff.

There's an awful lot of waves in that floor, couldn't you have done a better job block sanding it?

Here's an update on the cabinet work...

I finished stripping and sanding everything to get the clear coat off. Then I bleached out the areas where there was water stains and cleaned all of the mold off the bottoms and backs. I bought some edge banding and replaced it where it was either missing, or severely damaged keeping the original in as many areas as possible. I had some help with the installation of the edge banding because I had never done it before. I then put a coat of natural stain on everything (well, I will finish that tonight) to bring out the natural grain and color of the wood.

Here are some photos of the progress...

Wow. Good job, looks great!