Parker Beene Deluxe

[Mike Kever Kombi]

AE engine code from 71

Originally 1600cc dual port dual relief with dog house oil cooler.
Definitely not original to the bus.

Better than original though, as long as everything is still within spec and wear limit.

[Mike Kever Kombi]

I was told it was original to the bus and was a 1500cc but I'm not sure the horsepower- I would guess 40hp.

When people refer to the 40 hp engine, they are talking about the 1200cc motor.

1500 single ports came from the factory with 50hp or so, but nobody refers to them as the 50 horse.

[parker beene]

Guy at the shop today said it looked like a 1300 40 horse and I tried to tell him the block code was from 71' but argued with me on further look it is only a single port not dual port, but as of right now I think I will be upgrading to a 1776 dual port and dual carb. The guy at the shop said it's be the same price for a 1915 as the 1776. And much cheaper to stay at original specs. Any advice guys?

[blue71]

Maybe he was busy, but I saw some weird shit at Glenn's shop when he was still with us and we never assumed engine X was exactly like it left the factory in vehicle X without some sort of cross referencing like you did. If he doesn't listen to block codes and goes solely by how it looks I would be worried and start looking for somebody else to build an engine for me, someone like RIS or Widefive.

Somebody may have made a frankenmotor in the past, taking a 71 block and putting the right size chamber single port heads and other ancillaries on it. The engine on the jack in your photo is sp, and the back of the fan shroud shows it's non-doghouse, so pre-71. I've put dual port heads on a single port block by swapping the 4 top center 10mm head studs for the shorter dp ones, so somebody could have done the opposite.

An AE code 71 engine is dual relief with two big flat screws for the oil passages in the bottom of the case. Check out the bottom of your engine and let us know which one it looks like from the photo below.




http://www.aircooledtech.com/vw_case/

The bottom case is a dual relief, the top one is single. Yours would have large flat screws plugging the holes being pointed at.

Balancing and good cylinder head work is key to a well running engine, among other things. Brandon has a nice 1776 (if my memory is right) built by Widefive in his thing and its a great engine. There is a lot less cutting into the case for 90.5s (1776) as opposed to 94s (1914). A stock 1600 was 69x85.5, 1500 parts aren't really readily available anymore from what I've been able to ascertain.

[Mike Kever Kombi]

Guy at the shop today said it looked like a 1300 40 horse and I tried to tell him the block code was from 71' but argued with me

on further look it is only a single port

Any advice guys?

Find a new mechanic.

If he can't tell the block from the engine code, or by the size of P&Cs it is time to find a new mechanic.

As for the single port. Keep it. Heads can be swapped out easily enough. As long as they are useable save your money.

As for displacement, stroke equals torque.

And honestly, before you get a boner about what size engine you are gonna build, add everything up. Having someone else build your larger displacement engine for you is probably gonna run into the few thousand dollar range. Is this something you can afford? There is nothing wrong with checking tolerances and reusing the parts that are still within spec. Save a couple grand or more and roll a 1600sp while you finish up the body, then start making performance upgrades.

[blue71]

Find a new mechanic.

If he can't tell the block from the engine code, or by the size of P&Cs it is time to find a new mechanic.

There is nothing wrong with checking tolerances and reusing the parts that are still within spec.

Looks like we agree again Mike, haha. Speaking of used parts, I'm only down to one good dp head in my junk, the other needs rebuilt.

I forgot that Parker's younger than me (damn getting old out here) so his budget is pretty similar to mine when it comes to things.

[WideFive]

...

[toolbox]

Find a new engine builder and listen to crankypants Aaron. Stroke before bore... Build a 2.0L and run Type IV FI with dual throttle bodies.

I can't believe I'm typing this, but you're actually getting some good advice from the knob gobblers that posted above

As for displacement, stroke equals torque

I can't stress that statement enough.

Another one to put down in your quote book... "Customers buy horse power, but drive torque."

Very few engine builders have a Bus state of mind and really have no idea what they are doing when building a Bus engine half the time. It's way too tempting to over build an engine and you can get away with that in a small light weight vehicle like a Beetle, but not with a Bus. Lets face it 80+% of the people they are building engines for aren't really putting any real miles on them anyhow, so they can get away with a lot of shit leaving the door.

What to build then...?

Well, these are my personal thoughts, but they can be backed up with actual miles in a Bus

"Single carbs are for lawn mowers" there's another quote for you. Dual single barrel carbs are like bringing a butter knife to a gun fight. So yeah, dual barrel dual carbs (IDF, DCNF, DRLA, IDA, etc..) are they way to go in my book.

Not everyone has the testicular fortitude to manage dual carbs, so 'll leave that off the table until I can get to know you better.

Only covering smaller more "cheap" to build options here...

1600SP, boring, but workable. SP head guys can be nazis about running them, the greatest thing ever, blah, blah, grab them some Metamucle for them the next time you go to the drug store.

1600DP, now you have a nice little engine that can breath. Stick a 100cam in there and some dual carbs, flowing exhaust and you got a runner that you can beat on pretty hard... and if you blow it up, so fuching what it was just a little 1600DP, right?

Should really nut up for some carbs with these combos...

1776DP, 69x90.5, now you have a cheap engine to build with a little balls. Some extra machining work for the heads and case, but very stock otherwise.

1835DP, 69x90.5, You're not building a rail buggy! Only exception would be to run thick wall 92mm cylinders, which is a relatively new option. I haven't run them yet, but have a set on the shelf for my next engine build

1915DP, 69x94, similar to a 1776 build, but more displacement. Some will say 94mm cylinders are too thin for a Bus engine. I haven't had that experience, but would choose a thicker cylinder option with smaller displacement if given a choice.

Once you realize that torque is what your Bus wants then it's stroker crank time.

1699DP (Yeah, I know it sounds small) 74x85.5, Stroker crank, stroker rods and stock pistons, it goes together a lot like a stock engine and you have minimal machine work, if any. The crank and rods will be additional cost, but well spent $$.

I'm going to stop there, as any further options involve more machine work, $$, kind of becomes a how big is your wallet scenario and it's not needed.

Straight cut cam gears are my "Frank's Red Hot Sauce", I put that shit in everything!

Well, these are my personal thoughts, but they can be backed up with actual miles in a Bus

Quoting myself, because I know at least one jackass out there will disagree, and want them to realize they can't back their shit up

Suck it!

[Mike Kever Kombi]

I can't believe I'm typing this, but you're actually getting some good advice from the knob gobblers

Awww Aaron says the sweetest things

Straight cut cam gears are my "Frank's Red Hot Sauce", I put that shit in everything!

Classic

Suck it!

Well put

[TRL]

WOW! Pure gold coming from a man with a beard! W5 should charge for all that awesomeness!
Parker, no matter what type of motor you get you will be limited by your transmission. Bus trannys are geared down a good bit to give more torque. Personally I wouldn't pair anything bigger than a 1776 with a stock trans because your still going to have the same high rpm problem. Now if you changed up the gearing with a freeway-flyer or lower it and put a bug trans in then yes, build big. But, i can tell you personally a 1600 pushes a stock bus just fine and you can cruise at 65mph. 1600 stuff is easy to get and find. Save the money for some plywood to fix that front floor of yours And although this contradicts all i just said, ITS YOUR BUS and YOUR MONEY and your choice. Whatever you do or choose just promise me 1 thing... Get that beauty on the road!!!