Parker Beene Deluxe

[heyed67]

parker. listen to these guy's they are all very knowledgeable and quick to give you the best information avalible to get you and your bus on the road. (get it driveable and drive it!)That is the best advice I 've got from all these Maniac's on this site.

[WestsideDan]

all this bla bla bla this is all to it, get a 1600 freeway-flyer, 15" grabber and some cojenes! and you'll be celebrating like this

[TRL]

all this bla bla bla this is all to it, get a 1600 freeway-flyer, 15" grabber and some cojenes! and you'll be celebrating like this

Hahahaha
Yes Parker get your bus rolling so you fit in with the rest of us.

[vw7266]

epic post aaron.....

[Mike Kever Kombi]

Fez's are cool




(I can't be the ONLY Dr. Who dork on this site)

( although I am a dork regardless)

[parker beene]

I can't believe I'm typing this, but you're actually getting some good advice from the knob gobblers that posted above

As for displacement, stroke equals torque

I can't stress that statement enough.

Another one to put down in your quote book... "Customers buy horse power, but drive torque."

Very few engine builders have a Bus state of mind and really have no idea what they are doing when building a Bus engine half the time. It's way too tempting to over build an engine and you can get away with that in a small light weight vehicle like a Beetle, but not with a Bus. Lets face it 80+% of the people they are building engines for aren't really putting any real miles on them anyhow, so they can get away with a lot of shit leaving the door.

What to build then...?

Well, these are my personal thoughts, but they can be backed up with actual miles in a Bus

"Single carbs are for lawn mowers" there's another quote for you. Dual single barrel carbs are like bringing a butter knife to a gun fight. So yeah, dual barrel dual carbs (IDF, DCNF, DRLA, IDA, etc..) are they way to go in my book.

Not everyone has the testicular fortitude to manage dual carbs, so 'll leave that off the table until I can get to know you better.

Only covering smaller more "cheap" to build options here...

1600SP, boring, but workable. SP head guys can be nazis about running them, the greatest thing ever, blah, blah, grab them some Metamucle for them the next time you go to the drug store.

1600DP, now you have a nice little engine that can breath. Stick a 100cam in there and some dual carbs, flowing exhaust and you got a runner that you can beat on pretty hard... and if you blow it up, so fuching what it was just a little 1600DP, right?

Should really nut up for some carbs with these combos...

1776DP, 69x90.5, now you have a cheap engine to build with a little balls. Some extra machining work for the heads and case, but very stock otherwise.

1835DP, 69x90.5, You're not building a rail buggy! Only exception would be to run thick wall 92mm cylinders, which is a relatively new option. I haven't run them yet, but have a set on the shelf for my next engine build

1915DP, 69x94, similar to a 1776 build, but more displacement. Some will say 94mm cylinders are too thin for a Bus engine. I haven't had that experience, but would choose a thicker cylinder option with smaller displacement if given a choice.

Once you realize that torque is what your Bus wants then it's stroker crank time.

1699DP (Yeah, I know it sounds small) 74x85.5, Stroker crank, stroker rods and stock pistons, it goes together a lot like a stock engine and you have minimal machine work, if any. The crank and rods will be additional cost, but well spent $$.

I'm going to stop there, as any further options involve more machine work, $$, kind of becomes a how big is your wallet scenario and it's not needed.

Straight cut cam gears are my "Frank's Red Hot Sauce", I put that shit in everything!

Well, these are my personal thoughts, but they can be backed up with actual miles in a Bus

Quoting myself, because I know at least one jackass out there will disagree, and want them to realize they can't back their shit up

Suck it!

hahaha thanks Aaron! I have a feeling that i will be pm'ing you soon for some more info!

Whatever you do or choose just promise me 1 thing... Get that beauty on the road!!!

Well... only because you asked

all this bla bla bla this is all to it, get a 1600 freeway-flyer, 15" grabber and some cojenes! and you'll be celebrating like this

Man. You guys on this site crack me up! I can't wait until i can drive up to an event with everyone!

[parker beene]

Maybe he was busy, but I saw some weird shit at Glenn's shop when he was still with us and we never assumed engine X was exactly like it left the factory in vehicle X without some sort of cross referencing like you did. If he doesn't listen to block codes and goes solely by how it looks I would be worried and start looking for somebody else to build an engine for me, someone like RIS or Widefive.

Somebody may have made a frankenmotor in the past, taking a 71 block and putting the right size chamber single port heads and other ancillaries on it. The engine on the jack in your photo is sp, and the back of the fan shroud shows it's non-doghouse, so pre-71. I've put dual port heads on a single port block by swapping the 4 top center 10mm head studs for the shorter dp ones, so somebody could have done the opposite.

An AE code 71 engine is dual relief with two big flat screws for the oil passages in the bottom of the case. Check out the bottom of your engine and let us know which one it looks like from the photo below.




http://www.aircooledtech.com/vw_case/

The bottom case is a dual relief, the top one is single. Yours would have large flat screws plugging the holes being pointed at.

Balancing and good cylinder head work is key to a well running engine, among other things. Brandon has a nice 1776 (if my memory is right) built by Widefive in his thing and its a great engine. There is a lot less cutting into the case for 90.5s (1776) as opposed to 94s (1914). A stock 1600 was 69x85.5, 1500 parts aren't really readily available anymore from what I've been able to ascertain.

i'll put some pics whenever i go back to the shop for sure!! I'm getting to the bottom of this!

[parker beene]

Alright ladies and gentlemen!!! The time has begun...

My engine rebuilding process is on its way as of today!!!

i've decided to take the somewhat easy route, however i am still excited. moving up to 12 V!!! ( sorry Sean), and getting some dual carbs, dual port 1600cc!!!!

more photos to come when i go back to the shop, right now its a disassembled block with pieces laying around it, so not much to see there. I will also take a bunch of photos of the building because it's a huge warehouse and i think you guys might actually kinda like it, it's a neat shop!

[Six Volt]

Alright ladies and gentlemen!!! The time has begun...

My engine rebuilding process is on its way as of today!!!

i've decided to take the somewhat easy route, however i am still excited. moving up to 12 V!!! ( sorry Sean), and getting some dual carbs, dual port 1600cc!!!!

more photos to come when i go back to the shop, right now its a disassembled block with pieces laying around it, so not much to see there. I will also take a bunch of photos of the building because it's a huge warehouse and i think you guys might actually kinda like it, it's a neat shop!

Good luck on the rebuild. Don't feel "bad" about going 12V. I question my intellectual capacity every time I turn on a 6V radio hoping to hear some clear quality music! Yes, 6V does have its limits.

[TRL]

What kind of carbs do you plan on running? Whichever you choose get some literature about them. And read and read and read. Each carb is a little different from the other and you need to know how to properly tune, sync, and play with them. Consider just starting out with just a simple single carb. Until you get the hang of things. And dont expect carbs new or used to just bolt on and work. Good Luck!